China-Guilin (June 2018)
China-Zhangjiajie (June 2018)
China-Xi’an (June 2018)
We took an overnight sleeper train from Chengdu to Xi’an. The train cars were pretty warm most of the time, but the bunks were softest beds so far. I had a bottom bunk and Lauren had a middle. You can tell there’s not much room in a top bunk–but they are the closest to the ventilation.
The bathroom was locked at stations so people couldn’t use it (because it dumps directly onto the train tracks.)
We arrived in Xi’an around 7:30. It was already shaping up to be a very hot day (it ended up getting to 100 degrees). We rented bikes and biked along the Xi’an city walls—oldest and best preserved in China. Really wide and decent to bike on.
We went to the Muslim Quarter. This was historically the end/start of the silk road, so there are still lots of Muslims here. We tried the dragon’s breath treat (puffed cereal soaked in liquid nitrogen). There were lots of food stalls and knick knacks.
We had some interesting food for lunch including noodle soup (tastes like somen) but also had tiny shrimp.
Then we went to see the Terra-cotta Warriors. We (and thousands of Chinese tourists) saw the rows of statutes in Pit 1. We saw fragments and weapons in Pit 3, and the wholly intact kneeling archer in Pit 3 and metal chariot in the museum. Everyone was sweating like crazy. It’s hard to tell how huge these pits are.
For our flight to Zhangjiajie we had extra security at the airport. I liked the sign about getting up slowly after squatting in the restroom. I also loved the nap pod.
Arrived in Zhangjiajie.
China-Chengdu (June 2018)
China-Beijing (June 2018)
Jordan (June 2017)
We went with a group to Petra. We had to pay $65 each for an “exit gate fee” from Israel. Then once we got to Jordan we had to pay $60 each for a visa. Our tour guide Nizar is a native Jordanian but spent college years in Wisconsin and served in Iraq as US Marine. We saw lots of Bedouin camps and sheep (and cattle trucks) during our two-hour bus ride. Aqaba is the only port for Jordan on the Red Sea, so they ship cattle from Europe (and lots of other things).
Wadi Rum (big canyon) in the distance.
In Petra we had a hike on a road for a while, then in the canyon. Lots of horses and carriage ride offers. Later camels and donkeys.
Cool carvings in the rock.
Great to come to the opening in the canyon to see the Treasury. Just like Indiana Jones.
We walked more to see more ruins. Hiked up 150 steps to see the Urn Tomb–converted by Romans.
There were lots of other cool carvings. It was a hot and exhausting to hike back to the visitors center. We bought two big bottles of water and tried to cool down. We had lunch at the Sandstone restaurant. Middle East buffet–pretty good. Long bus ride back to Eilat/Israel.
Lots of goats in the road.
Israel (June 2017)
Sarah and I spent about 10 days in Israel. We had a rough start since our Tel Aviv hotel was closed when we arrived at 4 am. Eventually we we decided to just walk to the Central Bus Station–the largest in the world until 2010. It was closed and there were sketchy people around. They opened at 5 am and we quickly made it to terminal 607 for the bus to Jerusalem. We were glad to have AC, wifi, and electricity. And to be out of Tel Aviv. We arrived at 6:45 at the Jerusalem Central bus station then walked to the hotel. No one was at the front desk until 7:30. We sat on the street until someone let us into the courtyard. The manager finally came. He let us leave our luggage but we couldn’t check in early.
We walked, then took the tram from Ha-Davidka station to Damascus Gate.
We walked through the Old City Muslim quarter. There was a thief who ran through the market–immediately the police (and their machine guns) caught and cuffed him. They had their weapons drawn in all directions (including at us) for several minutes.
We walked to the Western Wall (with our scarves on) and actually touched the wall in the women’s section. We wanted to visit the Temple Mount and Al Aqsa Mosque /Dome of the Rock but it was closed for security reasons. Ramadan ends on Friday night.
We saw the Mount of Olives and the Jewish Cemetery. It was surprising how much trash is in the Kidron Valley. We walked through the Garden of Gethsemane. It was very peaceful.
We went into the Church of All Nations.
Walked walked down the up the steep hill to the Jerusalem Center and got a tour and organ concert. Nice to cool down and have a decent bathroom and water fountain.
We took Bus 275–driver stops randomly for people he thinks would like a ride, back to Damascus Gate.
We walked the Via Dolorosa to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Under construction and very crowded to see the tomb. Theoretically Jesus was crucified in the deep basement area and buried nearby in the tomb shown here.
We walked to the Garden Tomb. It was so peaceful. We were glad to have beaten the big rush of tourists.
We saw Golgotha from inside the garden.
Tram back to hotel but still not able to check in so we took a brief nap in the courtyard while waiting. Finally able to check in (30 hrs of no sleep). After a nap, shower, dinner, and grocery shopping we called it a day.
6/22 Thurs
We took an Arab bus from Damascus Gate to get to Bethlehem. It is in a Palestinian Authority area, so Israeli citizens aren’t allowed in.
It was worse than airport security getting out again. We hiked through the Arab old city markets to get to Manger Square. We visited the Church of the Nativity. It was super crowded with Brazilian tourists and under renovation. We were approached by a tour guide who promised to help us skip the lines. We saw other groups do exactly that–it seems they bribe the guards to cut lines or go in the back way.
We walked over to the Church of the Milk Grotto.
We walked and walked to get to the bus stop past the checkpoint. We saw the Banksy graffiti on the wall at Rachel’s tomb.
We had to go through the checkpoint with our passports, then through this big warehouse if security and passport screenings again. Then onto bus 234 straight to Damascus Gate.
We took the Light Rail to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Museum. Very detailed descriptions, items , videos, etc of the Shoah or Holocaust. Very sobering. Wall of names of all 6 million victims. Also saw the Hall of Remembrance with its eternal flame and names of concentration camps and the pillar of heroes.
6/23–Friday–We went with a group to tour the south. We stopped at the Sea Level sign on the way down to the Jordan River, and saw Jericho but we didn’t get to go there.
Sarah and I noticed how dry and hilly it was–a miserable journey for sure in olden times. We saw Bedouin camps with shacks instead of tents. There were some goats–hard to see how they can survive in the a bleak Judean Desert. We arrived at a spot on the Jordan River theoretically where Jesus was baptized.
In a heavily secured area with land mines just outside a fence.
At the En Gedi nature reserve we hiked up the mountainside about 25 minutes and cooled off in several of the pools from waterfalls–we counted 10 waterfalls at least. We saw cute little hyrax that looked kind of like a cat and lots of ibex. At the bottom we bought watermelon ice pops.
We had a long drive to Masada the ruins of a mountaintop fortress. We took the cable car to the top because they closed the trail–too hot to hike safely. Sarah was already tired so we don’t hike around tons. We saw some of the key places like the quarry, the storehouse, commandants quarters, the 3 level Northern palace, the bathhouse, another palace, synagogue, and Byzantine church.
Long drive along Dead Sea to the private beach where we got to swim. The water was bath water warm. We floated and it didn’t sting too much. We covered our legs in mud and then rinsed off thoroughly.
Everything was closing because it was almost Shabbat. We had to get a few things in the market and also convenience store. Everyone in a mad rush before 7 pm Sabbath.
6/24 Saturday–the Sabbath. After breakfast we caught a cab to the BYU Jerusalem Center for church (no public transit on the Sabbath). For Sacrament meeting it was great to overlook the Old City.
After church we walked around the building and took a few more pics. Score leaving. We ended up getting a ride from Jimmy (Jimmy’s Bazaar olive wood carvings) and his son. He’s been connected to the JC since before the building was built. He’s even been to Lehi. He really remembers people and geography. We made spaghetti for lunch then read and napped for several hours. A nice relaxing Sabbath.
6/25–Sun, We took the tram then walked to Jaffa gate. We got tickets and walked the ramparts (city walls) from Jaffa to New Gate. We saw interesting gardens and buildings. We walked through the Muslim Quarter to get out Lion’s Gate.
We walked down into the Kidron Valley to see the Gihon Spring but There wasn’t really anything to see. We got directions and found out we had to climb a ton of stairs to get to Hezekiah’s Tunnel. We finally got to the entrance and found out that tickets were sold at the visitors center at the top of the mountain. We followed a big group of screaming school kids. The water was 28 inches deep at points and very narrow (with a low ceiling). Sarah didn’t really like it. We ended at the Pool of Siloam and ate our melted protein bars.
We went through the Jewish and Armenian quarters. We toured the Citadel and Tower of David Museum.
Some great views of the city and interesting history of the area. We got to the tram and determined to ride it until we saw Domino’s Pizza again. Sarah spotted it so we got off the tram and bought a large cheese pizza. It was a packed tram heading back (and we’re holding a piping hot pizza box)–we enjoyed the food. We did 16,000 steps and 51 flights of stairs!
6/26–Mon. After breakfast we took the tram to Damascus Gate. Old city was very quiet this morning–Arabs still celebrating the end of Ramadan, the Dome of the Rock plaza was closed again today–we tried 4 days (W, T, S, M) but closed for security reasons around Ramadan. The Western Wall was really busy this morning with bat mitzvah groups. We walked the Via Dolorosa and got some souvenirs.
We walked along Yafo (Jaffa) street and then Ben Yehuda. Lots of American brand and English.
We walked through Sachar Park to get to the Knesset Parliament building and huge menorah. Nice area.
6/27 Tuesday–We rented a little Gray Fiat with sort of manual transmission. Sarah and Google maps were great navigators. We drove out of Jerusalem and down by Jericho and the Dead Sea on Highway 90 for about two hours to get to The Sea of Galilee. Tiberias was a crowded resort town. We got sidetracked but figured out the way to Capernaum. We tour the church and ruins from Jesus’ time. Also climbed down to touch the water.
Next drive to Mt Tabor. Tons of speed bumps and switchbacks to the top of the mountain and the Church of the Transfiguration. Pretty cool to see and nice acoustics. Wound our way back down tiny steep roads with tons more speed bumps.
Getting off highway to Nazareth we got a flat tire and pulled over. I called the emergency number and they said I had to change it to the spare and get the flat fixed. I put on the required safety vest and Sarah and I got the gear and spare out. A nice man pulled over and helped us. His jack was better than ours and he was stronger.
We tried to find the tire repair shop recommended by Thrifty but couldn’t find it. We drove up lots of narrow windy to a police station to ask for help. They tried and eventually gave some vague directions. We stopped later to ask for more help. Man and son gave a little more specific directions. We finally found it. 200 shekels for a new tire. They were pretty fast with the repair and replacement. We drove to the Church of the Annunciation and St. Joseph’s Church.
Drove to Caesarea. The national park was closed but we could still see lots of the ruins.
The Herods Hotel had overbooked so they sent us in a cab to another hotel–Leonardo Suites Bet Yam about 25 minutes away. Definitely a few steps down in quality and at the far south end of town. Apparently like getting moved to Oakland from SF.
6/28–Wed–I earned my trip by presenting at Cyber Week, hosted by Tel Aviv University. Afterwards we were able to move back to the nice hotel and have McDonalds for dinner. It’s right by the American Embassy. We walked back along the beach.
6/29–Thursday–Jordan trip
The shelters are for missile attacks. Found in most buildings. They were used two years ago when Hamas started firing missiles from the Gaza Strip.
6/30–Friday. Last day in Tel Aviv.
Gorgeous Mediterranean Sea. Too many jellyfish (medusas) to swim.
Siem Reap, Cambodia (January 2017)
We flew from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, a popular resort town which is the gateway to the Angkor region.
Our first visit was to Angkor Wat, the largest temple complex in the world, built aroun 1150 AD.
Lots of steep stairs everywhere.
A group photo.
There are intricate carvings everywhere. Some are the Apsara Dancers.
The next day we saw Angkor Thom, former city with the Bayon (with all the faces) temple.
There was one temple with really narrow steep sandy steps–pretty cool.
We got to ride around the temple complex on an elephant.
At Ta Prohm, the trees have taken over the temple complex. Made famous by the movie Tomb Raider.
Our lunch included rice with red ants. They are popular because they taste tangy.
I took a tuktuk to church. Glad to see the familiar sign.
I walked around the Old Market. Lots of kinds of rice. People eating food in their shops. A wide variety of merchandise (mostly for locals, but some souvenir shops).
Everyone else had earlier flights, so I hired a tuktuk to take me to the ruins–including the far away ones–I spent 5 hours cruising through the countryside. It was very interesting.
Pre Rup–was brick style, with knee-high narrow steps
Banleay Srei–pink sandstone, smaller, intricate carvings, gorgeous, but 1 hour out of town:
Riding through the countryside.
East Mebon–rural, big elephant sculptures:
Ta Som–face towers:
Neak Pean–island temple, boardwalk to get there, horse sculpture .
Preah Khan–like Ta Prohm but bigger, trees encroaching, 2-story building
Fish pedicure for $2–kind of crazy and ticklish and included a can of soda.
Phnom Penh, Cambodia (January 2017)
We had meetings for a few days in the capitol, Phnom Penh. Traffic was crazy. It makes sense that so many use motorcycles or scooters to get around.
The wiring is crazy–the circuit breakers are outside the houses and get tripped all of the time.
This is one way to get your fabric where it needs to go. They have a strong textiles market.
Also, poverty everywhere:
We had a variety of meetings at the American Chamber of Commerce, a visit to the US Embassy, meetings in the Special Economic Zone where they are trying to lure foreign companies. All of the companies mentioned how corrupt the government is and that makes it hard to do business without bribery. The government even has an anti-corruption unit to help.
We had a tour of Laureltin Diamonds where they cut and polish small diamonds. I was pretty excited for our tour of a candy factory–Aparti (a subsidiary of American Licorice Company, maker of Red Vines). I was hoping for Willy Wonka style but with licorice. I was disappointed that we only got to see and sample production of a coffee flavored hard candy. We had to get suited up properly for the tour (including white crocs).
After dinner we took a tuktuk to the night market. Walking home along the Tonle Sap river we saw lots of people sleeping on the sidewalks, including this baby in a little net:
The hotel didn’t want us to bring durian fruit into the hotel room because it smells so bad. I tried a sample of durian fruit ice cream–not so tasty.
After a morning visit to the Ministry of Commerce–government guys talking about the improvements and opportunities in doing business in Cambodia, then meeting with Young Entrepreneurs including breakout sessions, interesting chatting in the round table breakouts, one IT guy has a brother in the MISM program at the University of Utah.
We had a tour of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum–which was a school built 1975, then Pol Pot and Khmer Rouge turned it into a prison and torture camp. Most were sent to the killing field nearby. About 2 million Cambodians (1/4 of the total population) were killed between 1975 and 1979.
We went to the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center. They have a memorial stupa (tower) with 10,000 skulls. There are marked mass graves and still bones and clothing jutting out of the dirt.
The worst part for me was the execution tree where they would hold the babies by their feet and bash their heads against the tree to kill them. Then they tossed them in the mass grave with the naked raped mothers. A sobering experience.